Maintain And Preserve Silk Sarees well.

To preserve your Kanchipuram Sarees, first and foremost ‘Wear Your Saree’.

Maintainig your silk saree of Kanchipuram is a tedious task, especially when you want to preserve the shine and luster. Silk sarees are washable; even at home, though dry cleaning is the best available option. Your aim while cleaning your saree must be to maintain the shine and luster along with the crispness of the design. 

Washing:
When you decide to wash your silk saree at home, never ever use soap at the start of the cleaning. First soak it in salt water for 20-30 minutes and then rinse it with cold water. Wash the saree a couple of times in plain water and then clean it quickly with mild detergent. First wash the pallu and the border finally moving onto the body. Avoid scrubbing with a brush, or bundling it up to un-crease the saree. After washing gently squeeze the excess water from the saree and hang it on the clothes line to dry, preferable out of direct sunlight. 

Removing Stains:
Lime juice is a miracle for removing stains. Add a few drops of lime juice to water to remove stains from silk sarees; however make sure you rinse it immediately as lime water tends to fade the cloth color. If it’s a stubborn stain then soak the area with petrol and scrub it lightly with a brush or soft cloth. 

Ironing:

The best time to iron your saree is when it is slightly damp, if not then dampen it using a spray bottle. Set the iron on medium to low heat, test a small corner first and begin by straightening the edges and the border. Fold the saree into half and iron each side while continuing to fold it into half further on.

Storing:

Silk of South

Keep your silk sarees neatly stacked up in your closet or in a box away from dust and light. However don’t store your saree in a plastic pouch as it doesn’t give the cloth any breathing space, instead bundle it in a clean white cloth. If you don’t use your sarees regularly, bring it out for some fresh air and/or leave a few dried neem leaves next to them in your closet. 

Even when you do so, always look out for new designs and patterns to add to your collection.
Know How To Drape a Saree in Minutes.

Wooden Swing Seat with Support Frame

Wooden Swing Seat with Support Frame

Introduction

The footprint (ground area) of this swing seat support frame is 2700mm (9ft) x 2100mm (7ft).

The overall height is 2025mm (81").

Know more about Wooden Swing For your Home.

Although this support frame is purposeful for a selected swing seat, it may also be accustomed support varied alternative utilities like swings or even a glide-ride, and is even capable of accommodating sure kinds of athletic facility instrumentality.

It is a awfully solid frame and essentially consists of 2 finish A-frames designed to attenuate front and back movement, a beam that sits on prime and 2 braces designed to attenuate sideways movement.

The lumber utilized in this project is one hundred by one hundred (4x4) stock, which implies that the lumber is one hundred millimeters (4") wide by one hundred millimeters (4") thick. this can be a awfully ordinary shares size and may be promptly getable from most lumber or building offer yards. If you favor to use swish lumber as critical rough, that typically means the wood has been planed or dressed and so the scale of the lumber are going to be slightly smaller, however that doesn't matter. most vital is that the lumber is appropriate for out of doors use and powerful enough for the duty, that essentially suggests that the stock ought to be fairly straight-grained and contain only a few knots - positively no huge knots. Your native lumber provider are going to be able to advise you on the foremost appropriate kinds of lumber on the market and additionally what safety precautions would possibly got to be taken whereas operating with any explicit form of lumber. for instance, once operating with treated lumber you may got to wear acceptable consumer goods, gloves and mask whereas cutting or shaving and sure waste disposal and shut down rules should be adhered to.

Individual Items

1) A frame leg 100x100 (4x4) stock appropriate for exterior use. Cut four items to length as shown higher than. Angle cut every finish twenty six.6 degrees off sq.. there's additional info on the way to mark and cut the angles within the instruction page.

2) Horizontal brace 100x100 (4x4) stock appropriate for exterior use. Cut 2 items to length as shown higher than. Angle cut every finish twenty six.6 degrees off sq..

3) Diagonal brace 100x100 (4x4) stock appropriate for exterior use. Cut 2 items to length as shown higher than. Angle cut every finish forty five degrees off sq..

4) Beam 100x100 (4x4) stock appropriate for exterior use. Cut one piece to length as shown higher.

Do you have a Wooden Swing at Home? 

New Pooja Room Vastu Tips you didn't know

Pooja Room Vastu

Pooja area could be a place wherever we tend to worship God for peace and prosperity. Ishanya or north-east is ruled by God and is a wonderful location for pooja area. Locating ‘Pooja room’ in north-east brings prosperity, healthiness, wealth, happiness and peace of mind. North-east is auspicious for alternative reasons. In morning sunrays fall directly from north-east and provides America positive energy.

Location of Pooja area

North-east is a wonderful location for Pooja area. Pooja area in north quadrant provides smart results. You'll be able to prefer east, north and north-east for pooja area. Special pooja’s may be performed in Brahmasthana (center of house). In massive plots, pooja area may be in Brahmasthan (central portion) of the house. Pooja area shouldn't be within bed area. It shouldn't be created on top of, below or next to bathroom or room. It ought to air ground floor, not on story or in basement.

Interior of Pooja area

Idols of God ought to be unbroken in north-east portion of pooja area. The idols shouldn't face each other conjointly the} door of pooja area also. the 2 idols of same god shouldn't be placed in pooja area. The idols ought to be one in. faraway from walls. ‘Kalash’ or water body is in North or East of the space. ‘Deepak’, lamp and ‘Agni’ kund square measure in south-east. we should always face East whereas attend. Avoid keeping significant idols in pooja area. littered and broken idols shouldn't be placed in pooja area. Avoid photos of dead individuals in pooja area. Keep pooja area clean and muddle free. There ought to be one pooja area in an exceedingly house. Pooja Room should be used for alternative functions like storage or alternative room.

According to Vastu, the Puja Mandir ought to be designed fastidiously in order that you gain the positive energies on meditation & worship and feel charged.

 Vastu of Puja area with regard to the house 

1) The Puja area in your home ought to be within the east, the north or the north-east corner of the house.

2) Puja area shouldn't be within the south direction.

3) The Puja mandir shouldn't be within the bedchamber.

4) The Puja area shouldn't be on top of, below or next to rest room or room.

5) Puja area shouldn't be engineered below the steps

6) The Puja area ought to have doors and windows within the north or the east.

Pooja area could be a area or shelf, that is employed to deal with the image of god. It may be Associate in Nursing freelance area or perhaps a shelf wherever pictures of gods square measure unbroken. Pooja area could be a place of worship and may be perpetually clean and neat each by its physical and environmental design.

Conclusion

The Puja area is that the area wherever the family’s deities, idols square measure unbroken and used solely for prayer, worship and meditation. In earlier times, a handy, giant area was solely reserved for this purpose and was sometimes accessed from the front room. However, these days with reduced area convenience, the Puja area has become a small area, generally simply atiny low mandir placed within the room.

Get a Brief History OF Furniture

Get a BRIEF HISTORY OF FURNITURE

Prehistoric piece of furniture

When individuals learned to farm and lived in permanent settlements they began to form piece of furniture. In Europe a number of the earliest famous piece of furniture comes from a Stone Age a village at Sara hillside within the Orkney Islands in European country concerning 2000 BC. The Stone Age farmers lived in stone huts with roofs of horn and turf within they created stone piece of furniture like cabinets and beds.

Check out Best Antique Furniture in the World.

Ancient Egyptian piece of furniture

Meanwhile in Egypt wealthy Egyptians lived in massive, comfy homes with several rooms. Walls were painted and floors had colored tiles within their homes wealthy Egyptians had picket piece of furniture like beds, chairs, tables and chests for storage but rather than pillows they used picket head rests. Find  Amazing Furniture Pieces you can make with Teak Wood.

Ordinary individuals lived in easier homes manufactured from mud. Individuals could have slept on the flat roof once it had been hot and that they did most of their work outside due to the warmth. For the poor piece of furniture was terribly basic. They used reed chests or picket pegs on walls to store things.

Ancient Greek piece of furniture

In Ancient Ellas even in an exceedingly wealthy home piece of furniture was basic. The Greeks keep things in picket chests or adorned them from picket pegs on the walls. The home would even have a dresser to show expensive cups. The individuals reclined on couches (which might conjointly act as beds). The couches were merely picket frames with rope webbing and mats or rugs arranged on high.

Roman piece of furniture

In Rome wealthy individuals enjoyed luxuries like mosaics and (in colder elements of the empire) panes of enclose windows and even a type of heating plant referred to as a hypocaust. The loaded Romans conjointly had wall paintings referred to as murals in their homes.

The wealthy closely-held terribly comfy piece of furniture. It had been upholstered and finely carved .. Oil lamps were used for light-weight after all for the poor Roman piece of furniture was terribly basic and distributed.

Saxon  Piece of Furniture

Life even for wealthy Saxons was exhausting and rough and piece of furniture was terribly easy. Sometimes in an exceedingly Saxon hall there was just one space shared by everyone. Thanes (upper category Saxons) and their followers slept on beds with straw mattresses and pillows however the poorest individuals slept on the ground.

Saxon piece of furniture however it should are basic and serious like picket benches and tables though upper crust Saxons likable having tapestries on their walls. There have been no panes of enclose windows, even in an exceedingly Thane's hall.

Furniture within the Middle Ages

In Saxon times an expensive man and his entire social unit lived along in one hall within the Middle Ages the hall was still the middle of a castle however the lord had his own space higher than it. This space was referred to as the star. In it the lord slept in an exceedingly bed, that was enclosed by curtains, each for privacy and to stay out drafts. The opposite members of the lord's social unit, like his servants, slept on the ground of the hall. At one or each ends of the nice hall there was a fire and chimney but within the Middle Ages chimneys were a luxury.

About 1180 for the primary time since the Romans wealthy individuals began to own panes of enclose the windows.

Medieval piece of furniture was terribly basic. Even in an exceedingly wealthy social unit chairs were rare. The general public Saturday on stools or benches wealthy individuals conjointly had tables and huge chests, that doubled up as beds. They weren't only for decoration. They conjointly helped keep drafts. within the Middle Ages piece of furniture (for the rich) was sometimes manufactured from oak.

20th Century piece of furniture

At the beginning of the twentieth century social class homes had 2 rooms downstairs and also the back room. The parlor was unbroken for best and youngsters weren't allowed to play there within the parlor the family unbroken their best piece of furniture and ornaments. The rear space was the room and it had been wherever the family spent most of their time. Most families done on a coal-fired stove referred to as a spread, that conjointly heated the area.

This mode modified within the early twentieth century as gas cookers became common. They didn't heat the area therefore individuals began to pay most of their time within the parlor or front room, by the fireplace. Rising living standards meant it had been potential to furnish all rooms properly not only Throughout the twentieth century normal people's piece of furniture greatly improved in quality and style.

Conclusion

In the Nineteen Twenties and Thirties a replacement form of piece of furniture and design was introduced. it had been referred to as artistic movement and it used geometric shapes rather than the flowing lines of the sooner art movement. The name artistic movement came from associate exhibition control in Paris in 1925 referred to as the Exposition hymn des Arts Decoratives.

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Wood Finishing

wood Finishing 

Wood finishing starts with sanding either by hand, usually employing a sanding block or power smoother, scraping, or planing. Imperfections or nail holes on the surface could also be filled using wood putty or pores could also be filled using wood filler. Often, the wood's colour is modified by staining, bleaching, or any of variety of alternative techniques.

Once the wood surface is prepared and stained, the end is applied. it always consists of many coats of wax, shellac, drying oil, lacquer, varnish, or paint, and every coat is usually followed by sanding.

source : www.tmfurn.com

Finally, the surface could also be polished or buffed using wire wool, pumice, rotten stone or alternative materials, counting on the shine desired. Often, a final coat of wax is applied over the finish to feature a degree of protection.

French polishing could be a finishing method of applying many thin coats of shellac employing a rubbing pad, yielding a very fine glossy finish.

Ammonia fuming could be a ancient method for darkening and enriching the colour of oak. Ammonia fumes react with the natural tannins in the wood and cause it to amendment colors. The ensuing product is glorious as "fumed oak".

Types of finishes

There are three major kinds of finish

1 ) Evaporative
2 ) Reactive
3 ) Coalescing

Wax is an physical change end as a result of it's dissolved in turpentine or crude oil distillates to create a soft paste. when these distillates evaporate, a wax residue is left over.

Reactive finishes could use solvents such as white spirits and dissolver as a base. Varnishes, linseed oil and tung oil are reactive finishes, which means they amendment with chemicals once they cure, not like physical change finishes. This natural action is usually a polymerisation, and therefore the resultant material is a smaller amount promptly dissolved in solvents .

Tung oil and flaxseed oil ar reactive finishes that cure by reacting with O, however don't kind a movie.

Water based mostly finishes typically represent the coalescing class.

Comparison of various clear finishes

Clear endes ar meant to create wood look smart and meet the strain to be placed on the finish. selecting a transparent end for wood involves trade-offs between look, protection, durability, safety, needs for cleansing, and easy application. the subsequent table compares the characteristics of various clear finishes. 'Rubbing qualities' indicates the benefit with which a finish will be manipulated to deliver the finish desired. Shellac ought to be thought of in 2 completely different ways in which. it's used as a end and as the simplest way to control the wood's ability to soak up alternative finishes by cutting it with ethyl alcohol. The alcohol evaporates soon to yield a end that's fully safe however shellac can attach itself to just about any surface, even glass, and just about the other end will be used over it.

Hangline approach

In the hangline approach, wood things being finished ar decorated by carriers or hangers that ar connected to a conveyor system that moves the things overhead or on top of the ground house. The conveyor itself will be ceiling mounted, wall mounted or supported by floor mounts. a straightforward overhead conveyor system will be designed to maneuver wood product through many wood finishing processes in an exceedingly continuous loop. The hangline approach to machine-controlled wood finishing conjointly permits the choice of moving things up to hotter air at the ceiling level to hurry up drying method.


In this towing line technique, mobile carts move giant article of furniture through varied finishing stages on a conveyor system.

Towline approach

The towing line approach to automating wood finishing uses mobile carts that ar propelled by conveyors mounted in or on the ground. This approach is helpful for moving giant, awkward formed wood product that ar tough or not possible to raise or droop overhead, like four-legged wood article of furniture. The mobile carts employed in the towing line approach will be designed with prime platens that rotate either manually or mechanically. The rotating prime platens enable the operator to possess quick access to all or any sides of the wood item throughout the varied wood finishing processes like sanding, painting and sealing.

Types of Wood for Woodworking

Sampling some softwoods

Softwoods aren't weaker than hardwoods. Softwoods come from coniferous trees such as cedar, fir, and pine and tend to be somewhat yellow or reddish. Because most coniferous trees grow fast and straight, softwoods are generally less expensive than hardwoods.

It's also relatively easy to find sustainably grown softwoods (woods grown on tree farms to ensure an endless supply of wood); this means you're not contributing to the deforestation of the world and will always have a supply of wood .

source :www.homeownernut.com

Cedar

The most common type of cedar is the western red variety. Western red cedar, as its name implies, has a reddish color to it. This type of wood is relatively soft (1 on a scale of 1 to 4), has a straight grain, and has a slightly aromatic smell.

Fir

Often referred to as Douglas Fir, this wood has a straight, pronounced grain, and has a reddish brown tint to it. Fir is most often used for building; however, it's inexpensive and can be used for some furniture-making as well. It doesn't have the most interesting grain pattern and doesn't take stain very well, so it's best to use it only when you intend to paint the finished product. Douglas fir is moderately strong and hard for a softwood, rating 4 on a scale of 1 to 4.

Pine

Pine comes in several varieties, including Ponderosa, Sugar, White, and Yellow, and all of them make great furniture. In some areas of the country (especially southwest United States), pine is the wood to use. Pine is very easy to work with and, because most varieties are relatively soft, it lends itself to carving.

Redwood

Like cedar, redwood is used mostly for outdoor projects because of its resistance to moisture. Redwood (California redwood) is fairly soft and has a straight grain. As its name suggests, it has a reddish tint to it. Redwood is easy to work with, is relatively soft (2 on a scale of 1 to 4), and is moderately priced. You can find redwood at your local home center.

Homing in on hardwoods

Most woodworkers love to work with hardwoods. The variety of colors, textures, and grain patterns makes for some beautiful and interesting-looking furniture. The downside to hardwoods is their price.

Ash

Ash is a white to pale brown wood with a straight grain. It's pretty easy to work with (hardness of 4 on a scale of 1 to 5) and takes stain quite nicely, but ash is getting harder and harder to find. You won't find ash at your local home center — it's only available from larger lumberyards. Ash is a good substitute for white oak.

 Birch

Birch comes in two varieties: yellow and white. Yellow birch is a pale yellow-to-white wood with reddish-brown heartwood, whereas white birch has a whiter color that resembles maple. Both types of birch have a hardness of 4 on a scale of 1 to 5.

Beech: 

Beech is another hardwood that bends easily, but it isn't as attractive as ash. Beech is often used with more expensive woods, primarily in inconspicuous places -- chair and table legs, drawer bottoms, sides and backs of cabinets. Beech takes a stain well, and is often stained to look like mahogany, maple, or cherry. Beech is both hard and heavy,and is difficult to work with hand tools. It is inexpensive.

Butternut

Hardwood Manufacturers Yellow Birch

Birch (yellow birch):

 Birch, a common hardwood, is used in all aspects of furniture construction. The wood is light yellowish brown, very similar in color and in grain to maple. The grain is quite pleasing. Birch is close-grained. It is moderately expensive.

Butternut: 

This hardwood, often called white walnut, is similar in many ways to walnut. The wood is light brown, with occasional dark or reddish streaks. The grain is pronounced and leafy. Butternut is coarse-textured, with visibly open pores; it is usually filled.  Butternut stains well, and is often stained to look like dark walnut. The wood is light, and is easy to work with hand tools. It is moderately expensive.

Oak (red oak, white oak): 

This abundant hardwood has always been valued for its strength and its attractive grain; It is used extensively for solid furniture and, in modern furniture, for veneers. White oak is a rich grayish brown color; red oak is similar, but with a pronounced reddish cast. Both types of oak are distinctively grained, with prominent rays or streaks. The wood is open-grained. It is moderately expensive; red oak is usually less expensive than white.

Pecan: 

This southern hardwood is quite strong, and is used extensively in dining and office furniture; pecan veneers are also common. The wood varies from pale brown to reddish brown, with some dark streaks; the grain is quite pronounced. The wood is difficult to work with hand tools; the price is moderate.

Other woods:  

Although most furniture is made from the woods listed above, many other woods are used in furniture construction.

 Some of the other woods used for furniture are alder, apple, aspen, chestnut, cottonwood, cypress, fir, hackberry, hemlock, holly, koa, laurel, locust, magnolia, pear-wood, spruce, tupelo, and willow. Treat all wood according to its apparent traits.

Tips and Warnings while Buying a Mattress for Bed

Tips and Warnings while Buying a Mattress for Bed

A good night's sleep is very essential for a healthy life. Any doctor will tell you that a good night's sleep is extremely important. It is not just the number of hours that plays an important role in ensuring a good sleep but also the level of comfort that depends on the mattress that you choose to relax on and one of the basic requirements of sound sleep is the elusive 'perfect' mattress. But how do you distinguish between all the different varieties available? Check 17 Top Tips of Buying New Mattress.

---->Understanding Parts of a Mattress

Three Parts of a Mattress

Basic rule one should keep in mind.

1. Divide mattress in 3 parts

Header n Footer must have density of 40 (must not use u foam at any cost).

2. Middle portion that supports torso must have higher density preferably 60.

3. Harder the foam better you get support. You may choose to keep rubberised coir support in the base max 1.5-2 inch.

4. Covering should be lined with good quality cotton for its skin friendly properties.

5. Foam should be at least 4 inch thick.

Tips for Buying a Mattress for Bed

1. Coir or Foam Mattresses

Foam mattresses are known for its extraordinary capacity for adapting to the pressure exercised by the body and to the body heat. The heat makes materials malleable and all polyurethanes are subjected to this. Coir also tends to get compressed when body rests on it. Over a period of time, it does not regain back its original shape leading to sagging of the mattress. Memo foam mattress responds mainly to the pressure of the body rather than to the heat, heat interacts much slower than the weight; so we can easily presume that it would take longer to adapt and even longer to recuperate to its original shape. And this feature makes you 'wake up feeling fresh'. In the case of a coir mattress which is basically hard.

2. Affect of Mattress on Quality Sleep and Relaxation

Only when the body gets quality sleep; we feel rejuvenated and relaxed. The mattress on which we sleep needs to be firm, yet gentle. If it is too hard, then it gets uncomfortable and hinders the quality of sleep. A mattress, in order to be proportionate to our body and to offer 100 % of all its comfort and quality, it must be 20 cm longer than us and at least 160 cm wide if sleeping in two.

It is to be noted that the distribution of weight is different according to our body and from one person to another and the perception of support and comfort is different. If sleeping on a single mattress, the width must be at least 90 cm in order to allow natural movement during the night.

When sleeping on the same mattress; the pressure created is of two different bodies, which needs to be considered. It is, therefore, very important to consider the variables that influence our rest when we sleep with another person.

Mattresses are not the same for every person; some are designed to cushion your stiff back while others provide support according to a person's height, age or weight. We generally do not pay much attention to these factors before buying a mattress; but neglecting such concerns can affect our sleeping habit.

3. Check Age of your Existing Mattress

Every mattress comes with its own expiry date. After a certain period of time, mattresses no longer retain their original comfort quality. If you've been having trouble sleeping, the problem might not be your mattress, but its age. This is the time that you should consider changing your mattress to prevent further troubles to your body.

4. The three S's

In India, most customers tend to prioritise the cost of the mattress over other components and end up complaining later. Softness, support and size are three important attributes of a mattress.

5. Test before you finalize

Once you've made up your mind on a particular mattress, try lying down on it for at least 10 to 15 minutes. Do not hurry with the big purchase and let not your decision be only influenced by the salesman. This will help you check for its comfort and reliability.

6. Check for all Options and Variations

Do not settle for anything mediocre. Check whether the mattress is firm, stylish and accompanied with a pillow-top the brand promises to offer.

7. Shop at a real Mattress Store

Avoid shopping from department stores. Salespeople at a mattress store are usually more trained and skilled enough to help you with the correct choice.

8. Do not forget to check the warranty

A good mattress will have a minimum of a 10 year 'full' replacement or a 'Non-prorated warranty'.
After it's all about sleeping well!

Quick Review of Tips

• Some stores will allow you to take a mattress home for a trial run. Sometimes there will be a small fee for this, or even a credit check.
• Dimension of the mattress should be selected precisely.
• Mattresses should have exclusive fabrics with zipper, which can be easily removed, dry cleaned and put back for use.
• Ask around for a good retailer or brand. Word of mouth is often the most reliable tool you have when researching a new brand or model.
• A mattress must be laid on a plain surface.
• Very useful tip to purchase the right mattress so that one can enjoy a sound sleep on it.

Warnings

• Make sure the mattress is comfortable in the store before purchasing.
• Do not allow the sales persons' pitch to alter your choice. You've invested a fair amount on your own, and the salesperson will most likely not be familiar with any brands or models outside their own store and inventory.
• Feel free to lay on it if the display allows.

Conclusion

Mattress is yours, health is the priority for a perfect sleep. Check all the above points and then go for a mattress. Keep an eye out for specials and sales, and always try to negotiate delivery charges.

happy sleeping !